Inside the Eerie Corridors of an Abandoned Russian Fortress

Late on a rainy day, I set out to explore one of the most iconic structures in Armenia’s second-largest city, Gyumri. Pushing through tall grass and slippery terrain, I made my way up to the fortress—only to find the entrance locked. Luckily, a narrow window offered a way in. Inside, I stepped into maze-like, eerie corridors where history, decay, and silence create one of the most atmospheric urbex experiences in Armenia. I was inside the Horseshoe-Shaped fortress.

In the 19th century, Gyumri rapidly grew in importance, becoming a key political, military, and economic center of the Russian Empire. On June 2, 1834, Nicholas I of Russia issued a decree to design a new military fortress here. Construction lasted nearly a decade. Interestingly, it was the fortress—not the town—that was first renamed Alexandropol in 1836. Only a year later, in 1837, Gyumri received city status and was also renamed Alexandropol.

On October 3, 1837, the emperor arrived in Gyumri via Akhaltsikhe. It was then that he ordered the construction of an Orthodox church within the fortress, later named Saint Alexandra.

The Alexandropol Fortress is a nearly rectangular structure, oriented from north to east. Shaped by the surrounding terrain, it is fortified by defensive walls on only one side. The complex was vast and largely self-sufficient, with barracks designed for up to 15,000 soldiers, arsenals, supply depots, a three-story hospital, and numerous service buildings. The fortress contained 36 powder storage rooms, around 200 cannons, and significant reserves of wheat and barley. Today, the Russian 102nd military base is located on the territory of the Alexandropol Fortress.

Built by local craftsmen, the fortress stands out among similar structures in the region. Its defensive network included key fortifications such as Sev Berd (Black Fortress), Karmir Berd (Red Fortress) and Paytadzev Amrots (Horseshoe-Shaped Fortress). While the first 2 are circular in design, the so-called Horseshoe-Shaped Fortress differs with its distinctive curved, semi-circular layout—giving it its name.

Karmir Berd remains in use, and Sev Berd has been restored and opened to visitors. In contrast, the Horseshoe-Shaped Fortress is still abandoned—its entrances locked, access limited, and entry requiring some physical effort.

All three fortresses were once connected by underground passages. Part of the tunnel is still visible today inside the Horseshoe Fortress, though the entrance is blocked with barbed wire. Arched corridors and a maze-like layout create a haunting atmosphere, giving the fortress its unmistakable eerie character.