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  • Crushed Plane on the Slopes of Mount Aragats | Armenian Explorer

    Explore the captivating tale of the crushed plane on the slopes of Mount Aragats, although regrettably, it is no longer there. In 1978, Armenfilm studio transported the plane from Erebuni Airport to the slopes of Mount Aragats to recreate a scene of a crashed plane and shoot a movie based on Henri Troyat's novel "Snow in Mourning". < Back Crushed Plane on the Slopes of Mount Aragats Explore the captivating tale of the crushed plane on the slopes of Mount Aragats, although regrettably, it is no longer there. In 1978, Armenfilm studio transported the plane from Erebuni Airport to the slopes of Mount Aragats to recreate a scene of a crashed plane and shoot a movie based on Henri Troyat's novel "Snow in Mourning". In 1978, Armenfilm studio produced the film "Snow in Mourning," directed by Yuri Erzinkyan and based on the novel by Henri Troyat, at the request of the USSR State Television and Radio. Cast Armen Dzhigarkhanyan: Isai Guzh Manukyan: Marceline Maya Bulgakova: Marie Lavalou Altynay Asylmuratova: Hindu Plot A passenger plane crashes in the Alps, and rescuers cannot reach the crash site. Meanwhile, Isaiah, a peaceful shepherd living in the mountains, and Marcellin, his younger brother aspiring to sell their inherited house, escape rural life, and start a business in the city. Marcellin persuades his elder brother Isai, a former guide once the best in these mountains, to climb to the site of the disaster to collect the valuables of the victims. Despite Isai's hesitation who considers it an immoral act (due to a tragic accident in the mountains he was impaired intellectually) Marcellin exploits brother’s mental problems and pressures him into going. Upon reaching the crash site, they discover a survivor. Marcellin is interested in collecting valuable things, while Isaiah wants to help the survived passenger. A conflict erupts… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUWpVeRTRs8 The movie in Russian is available on YouTube How the Plane Reached There Filmmakers used a Yak-40 aircraft from the Armenian Civil Aviation Administration, damaged during a rough landing at Erebuni Airport in Yerevan in 1973, to depict the foreign aircraft wreckage. The Yak-40 was transported to the slope of Mount Aragats near Lake Kari, resembling the crash site. After shooting, the plane was left on the mountainside. This photo is from Armen Gasparyan's photo archive, featuring his uncle posing for an epic shot while looking out of the plane's window Unfortunately, the plane is no longer there, as metal hunters have already looted it! Luckily, Armen Gasparyan's captivating photo from his family archive offers a glimpse into this historic moment! Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • Lake Kari – Armenia’s High Altitude Lake Accessible On Sedan | Armenian Explorer

    If you’re seeking an unforgettable adventure amidst Armenia’s stunning natural beauty, Lake Kari (translated from Armenian as “Stone Lake”) is a must-visit destination. Perched at an impressive altitude of 3,200 meters on the southern slopes of Mount Aragats, this high-altitude alpine lake offers a perfect blend of hiking adventure and awe-inspiring scenery. Lake Kari serves as a popular starting point for climbing Mount Aragats, making it a key destination for trekking in Armenia and a popular spot for camping. < Back Lake Kari – Armenia’s High Altitude Lake Accessible On Sedan If you’re seeking an unforgettable adventure amidst Armenia’s stunning natural beauty, Lake Kari (translated from Armenian as “Stone Lake”) is a must-visit destination. Perched at an impressive altitude of 3,200 meters on the southern slopes of Mount Aragats, this high-altitude alpine lake offers a perfect blend of hiking adventure and awe-inspiring scenery. Lake Kari serves as a popular starting point for climbing Mount Aragats, making it a key destination for trekking in Armenia and a popular spot for camping. On the slopes of mount Aragats there are many high altitude lakes which are popular touristic destinations! Among them Lake Kari, Lake Rapi, Mtnalich, Lake Astghakan are very popular! Lake Kari as seen by my camera! In the distance, you can see Mount Aragats, with the left summit being the western one and the right summit being the southern one. The distance from Yerevan (Republic Square) to Lake Kari spans approximately 60 km. You have two route options: Via Byurakan – This is the preferred route as the road is in good condition despite its many sharp turns. Via Artashavan – This route includes a stop near the Armenian Alphabet Park, but the road becomes quite bumpy after the park. For those traveling in a sedan, the Byurakan route is the better choice. However, both roads merge above Byurakan, leading to a single road that takes you to the lake. While the asphalt is old, it is well-preserved, making the journey manageable even for a sedan. Expect a drive of approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes, bringing you to an elevation of 3,200 meters, where the stunning Lake Kari (Stone Lake) awaits! Snapped this shot of my Mitsubishi Pajero in mid-May near Lake Kari, at around 3,200 meters elevation. Just look at the snow still clinging to the ground—Mother Nature clearly isn’t done with winter up here. On the shore of Lake Kari, nestled at an elevation of 3200 meters, lies the Cosmic Ray Research Station, established back in 1943 by the esteemed Soviet physicists, brothers Artem and Abraham Alikhanyan. The station was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union to have the world's largest permanent magnet magnetic spectrometer. A photo of Lake Kari I took in mid-May. Lake Kari has a perimeter of 1,150 meters and reaches a depth of 8 meters. Its water remains refreshingly cold, making it an inviting spot for swimming during hot days. The lake is primarily fed by precipitation. To secure a reliable water supply for the Cosmic Ray Research Station, the southern outlet of Lake Kari was sealed with a concrete wall. This intervention has elevated the lake’s water level, preventing it from freezing completely during winter and ensuring a consistent water reserve. The stored water from the spring season now meets the station’s needs throughout the year. It was the end of November. As we got closer to Lake Kari, the road was blocked by a thick layer of snow from a blizzard the night before. Just then, a bulldozer came down from the lake, clearing the road. Additionally, the lake is home to trout, whose population is sustained through the annual introduction of artificially bred fry. This careful balance of ecological management and resource optimization highlights the harmonious integration of scientific infrastructure and natural preservation at Lake Kari. One of the earliest photos of Lake Kari and Cosmic Ray Research Station! Year 1953 It’s important to note that due to heavy snowfall, the road leading to Lake Kari is typically covered with a thick layer of snow and remains closed from late November until mid-May. Visitors who step through the station’s gates can also discover a remarkable Vishap (Dragon Stone) resting on the shores of Lake Kari, adding a touch of ancient mystery to this high-altitude scientific outpost. https://video.wixstatic.com/video/103e0a_533d4b89eed54ef380a44f8f4c014af1/1080p/mp4/file.mp4 A Vishapakar (Dragonstone) on the shore of Kari Lake! Vishapakars, also known as dragon stones, megalithic monuments, or menhirs, are ancient monoliths found in abundance across the Armenian Highland. These enigmatic stones, often located at high altitudes near natural and artificial ponds, as well as other water sources, are deeply connected to the ancient worship of water. To date, approximately 150 vishapakars have been discovered in the Armenian Highland, with 90 of them located in Armenia. Night on the shore of lake Kari Vishapakars are predominantly found in groups at elevations ranging from 2,300 to 3,200 meters above sea level, often positioned in concave meadow landscapes, which makes them less visible. However, isolated examples exist at altitudes as low as 1,200 to 2,300 meters. Carved from a single basalt block, these monoliths measure between 150 and 550 cm in height and typically feature cylindrical or slab-like shapes with depictions of fish, serpents, or bulls. Based on their iconography and form, they are categorized into three main types: Bull-Shaped Vishaps – A thick slab featuring a sculpted bull’s head and draped limbs on its front side. Fish-Shaped Vishaps – Cylindrical, featuring a carved fish with anatomical details. Hybrid Vishaps – Combining elements of both bull and fish designs. Most of the discovered vishapakars were found lying horizontally, having fallen from their original upright positions over time. These ancient stones remain one of Armenia’s most mystifying archaeological wonders, continuing to spark fascination and debate among historians and researchers. Lake Kari also serves as a starting point for those climbing Mount Aragats! Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • A unique monument in Armenia destroyed by Azerbaijani vandals | Armenian Explorer

    Explore the poignant history of a unique Armenian monument destroyed by Azerbaijani vandals in Soviet times < Back A unique monument in Armenia destroyed by Azerbaijani vandals Explore the poignant history of a unique Armenian monument destroyed by Azerbaijani vandals in Soviet times In 1968, a distinctive monument was erected at the entrance of Vardenis, Armenia. This composition featured a striking bull statue alongside a sculptural relief. The monument was the work of renowned sculptor Rafael Yekmalyan and esteemed architect Rafael Israelyan. Fortunately, a few historical photos have made their way to our days Unfortunately, the monument has not survived. According to sculptor Harutyun Yekmalyan, son of Rafael Yekmalyan, it was destroyed by Azerbaijanis. The bull statue was severely damaged and, by some accounts, buried by Azerbaijanis in the 1980s. Efforts to restore the monument were once blocked under the pretext of avoiding heightened tensions with Azerbaijan. The remnants of the monument today We hope that someday Armenian authorities will find the will and desire to rebuild this unique memorial. Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • King of the Forest Statue in Dilijan | Armenian Explorer

    Discover the "King of the Forest" statue by renowned Armenian artist Ara Sargsyan, nestled deep within the woods of Dilijan National Forest. < Back King of the Forest Statue in Dilijan Discover the "King of the Forest" statue by renowned Armenian artist Ara Sargsyan, nestled deep within the woods of Dilijan National Forest. In 1966, while resting with his family on the forested slopes of Dilijan, Ara Sargsyan stayed at a government summer house built for Aghasi Khanjyan . During a stroll, the sculptor noticed a giant tree with spreading branches and was inspired to breathe life into it through his art. Ara Sargsyan and the statue "King of the Forest", 1968 Previously, in 1923, Sargsyan had created a wooden statue titled "Goatman," representing a divine figure from ancient Greek mythology associated with the forest. In 1967, he revisited and reimagined this work, giving it a new look and renaming it "King of the Forest." The statue is located just a few meters away from Aghasi Khanjyan's former summer house. Coordinates of the statue: 40°44'13"N 44°51'41"E Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • An Armenian church with a unique design | Armenian Explorer

    This church in Mrgashat village, Armenia, boasts a design that immediately caught my eye! I had never seen any church in Armenia with wooden columns before, making it truly stand out < Back An Armenian church with a unique design This church in Mrgashat village, Armenia, boasts a design that immediately caught my eye! I had never seen any church in Armenia with wooden columns before, making it truly stand out Known as the Holy Mother of God Church or Surb Astsvatsatsin Church in Armenian, it is an Armenian Apostolic Holy Church situated in the village of Mrgashat in the Armavir region of Armenia. It was constructed in the 19th century. The Church of the Holy Mother of God in Mrgashat village was erected in 1865 and consecrated in 1903, replacing a chapel that previously occupied the site. Before the renovation the basilica-style structure featured an earth-covered roof. It is constructed of black and yellow tuff stone, measuring (33 x 17) meters. During the Soviet era, particularly from 1937 to 1980, the church was repurposed as a grain warehouse. In 2007, renovations of the church commenced. On October 15, 2011, it was re-consecrated by the head of the diocese, Fr. Sion Bishop Adamyan. Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • Modernist Architectural Masterpiece - Rossia Cinema in Yerevan | Armenian Explorer

    Rossia Cinema commissioned in Yerevan in 1974, is considered one of the most remarkable Soviet-era modernist structures in the city. The architects, Artur Tarkhanyan, Spartak Khachikyan, and Hrachya Poghosyan, were awarded the prize of the Council of Ministers of the USSR for this project in 1979. The cinema was privatized in 2004, and in 2006, part of the structure was transformed into the trade and cultural center "Rossia," which currently functions primarily as a commercial space. < Back Modernist Architectural Masterpiece - Rossia Cinema in Yerevan Rossia Cinema commissioned in Yerevan in 1974, is considered one of the most remarkable Soviet-era modernist structures in the city. The architects, Artur Tarkhanyan, Spartak Khachikyan, and Hrachya Poghosyan, were awarded the prize of the Council of Ministers of the USSR for this project in 1979. The cinema was privatized in 2004, and in 2006, part of the structure was transformed into the trade and cultural center "Rossia," which currently functions primarily as a commercial space. The project for the cinema, designed by Arthur Tarkhanyan, Spartak Khachikyan, and Hrachya Poghosyan, was submitted to the Union of Architects in 1970-1971 and subsequently approved by the City Council of Yerevan. The "Haypet Project" Institute was tasked with implementing the project. Construction began in the early 1970s on the site of one of Yerevan's oldest markets, the "Black Market." The project was challenging due to its modernist and unconventional design, prompting the architects to prepare a large model to facilitate the builders' work. A scale model of the Rossia Cinema. Image source: "Arthur Tarkhanyan Center" Facebook page The Rossia Cinema officially opened in December 1974 during a plenary session of the CPC Central Committee, chaired by Karen Demirchyan, the first secretary of the Central Committee of the CPC. The cinema was a multifunctional complex consisting of three main parts. two halls of different sizes, but with the same shape, with 1,600 and 1,000 seats, an open area under the halls where exhibition halls, a cafe, a bar, and ticket offices are located. You could also pass through this area on the street without entering the cinema. This connection between outside and inside is considered one of the building's ingenious solutions. Sculptures by Hmayak Bdeyan, in the form of masks, adorned the partition wall The lobby and bar were separated by a transparent partition that could be opened and closed, measuring 10 meters wide and 3.5 meters high. Sculptures by Hmayak Bdeyan, in the form of masks, adorned the partition wall, while other halls featured sculptures by Yervand Gojabashyan, Henry Elibekyan, Ohan Petrosyan, and others. The cinema's modern circular bar and the teahouse, furnished in a Russian style with kettles on the tables and freshly made cakes, were noteworthy features. The suspended ceiling of the "Rossia" cinema, called "вантовое перекрытие (cable-stayed ceiling)” was the first of its kind in Armenia. The cinema's roof, facing Tigran Mets Street, spans 40 meters wide and 60 meters long, hanging without any support. Arthur Tarkhanyan and other architects standing near the scale model of the Rossia Cinema. Image source: "Arthur Tarkhanyan Center" Facebook page Initially intended to be named "Ayrarat" or "Noyan Tapan," the cinema was ultimately named "Rossia." After Armenia's independence, it was briefly renamed "Ayrarat." In 2004, the "Rossia" cinema was privatized, and the "Narek" company, part of the "Sil Concern," became the owner. In 2006, the center was once again renamed "Rossia." On November 11, 2006, the first building of the "Rossia" commercial and cultural center was turned into a cafe and shopping halls. Unfortunately, the sculptures and paintings by Yervand Gojabashyan, Henry Elibekyan, Ohan Petrosyan, and Hmayak Bdeyan were later removed and up to this day their fate is unknown. Rossia Cinema today However even today, the Rossia Cinema stands as a testament to the innovative spirit of its architects and the modernist architectural movement in Yerevan. Despite changes and challenges over the years, it remains a significant cultural and architectural landmark in Armenia's capital. Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” | Armenian Explorer

    As a child, I remember gazing at the large bookshelves in our home, filled with books neatly lined up one after another. Among them, one stood out—a book displayed with its cover facing outward. On the cover was an image of a man traversing a snowy, rocky mountain, pulling a loaded yak behind him. The white letters in Russian on the cover were unreadable to me then. But soon, I learned to read and write, and that book turned out to be The Crystal Horizon by Reinhold Messner. Let’s talk about it. < Back On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” As a child, I remember gazing at the large bookshelves in our home, filled with books neatly lined up one after another. Among them, one stood out—a book displayed with its cover facing outward. On the cover was an image of a man traversing a snowy, rocky mountain, pulling a loaded yak behind him. The white letters in Russian on the cover were unreadable to me then. But soon, I learned to read and write, and that book turned out to be The Crystal Horizon by Reinhold Messner. Let’s talk about it. On August 20, 1980, Reinhold Messner made history as the first person to climb Mount Everest solo and without supplemental oxygen, pioneering a new route on the North Col/face. For me, this ascent remains the epitome of heroism in mountaineering. It’s a feat that I would only compare to Hermann Buhl’s legendary first ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953. However, while Buhl had a large team supporting him, Messner embarked on his Everest climb accompanied only by his girlfriend, with no backup team. The first time I read The Crystal Horizon was in Russian. It was published in Moscow in 1980 with 100,000 copies, a rarity and highly sought-after book at the time. My father, through his connections, managed to get a copy. Years later, I bought the original German version of the book. Though I wasn’t fluent in German, I pushed myself to read it, learning new words and significantly improving my language skills in the process. This book is not just a thrilling account of a mountaineering milestone; it’s also a source of inspiration and personal growth. The Russian and German editions of The Crystal Horizon Later, when I got my hands on both the English and German editions of The Crystal Horizon, I noticed that they included more photos than the Russian one. Despite this, the book was highly valued in Soviet countries, where access to Western literature was limited, and it played a significant role in introducing Messner’s incredible achievements to a wider audience. The Russian edition, though slightly abridged in visuals, still managed to capture the essence of his journey and contributed to making Messner famous among mountaineering enthusiasts in the USSR. The first page instantly captures the reader's attention, beginning with a heartfelt letter from Messner’s mother. However, this letter appears only on the early pages of the Russian version, while in the German edition, it is found on pages 306–307. Personally, I find the Russian version more compelling and greatly value their approach. Having already lost one of her sons, Günther, she found it incredibly difficult to come to terms with Messner’s future ascents. This letter is not only deeply moving but also serves as a poignant reminder of the psychological challenges and emotional weight that accompanied this extraordinary climb. Messner begins by recounting early attempts to conquer Everest, including the fascinating story of Maurice Wilson’s ill-fated expedition. This historical context adds immense value to the ascent, as it helps the reader fully appreciate the near-impossible nature of Messner’s achievement. No surprise that throughout his ascent, he constantly thinks about Wilson and Mallory, asking himself whether they made it. Here's an excerpt: "If Wilson had managed to get up here, I think suddenly, would he have reached the summit? Wilson was tougher than I am, uncompromising, and capable of enduring loneliness. The stretch above me seems really easy, so Wilson would have been able to climb it, at least as far as the North-East Ridge." When I read this book around 2005, during the pre-Internet era in Armenia—when dial-up connections were still a novelty and access to information was limited—I learned a great deal about the pioneering expeditions. It was through this book that I first discovered the stories of Mallory and Irvine, as well as Maurice Wilson. Messner accomplished this incredible feat not only solo but also during the monsoon season—a time when climbing conditions on Everest are notoriously harsh. Initially, his plan was to attempt the ascent in the mid-1980s. However, upon learning that Japanese climber Naomi Uemura had obtained permission to climb Everest in 1980/81, Messner decided to take on the challenge earlier, opting for an even more daring ascent: during the monsoon season and completely alone. Open page of the Russian edition of The Crystal Horizon Uemura was no ordinary competitor—he had reached the North Pole solo on a dog sled, a feat that underscored his determination and skill. However, despite his reputation, Uemura later canceled his plans to climb Everest from the North (Tibetan) side. Messner, on the other hand, pressed forward undeterred. Interestingly, Messner skillfully incorporates excerpts from his girlfriend Nena's diary, offering the reader a unique third-person perspective on the events. I plan to dedicate a separate article to Messner's 1980 solo ascent. For now, I highly recommend The Crystal Horizon to anyone fascinated by mountaineering, adventure, or stories of unparalleled human resilience. This book is much more than an account of a climb—it’s a profound journey into the mind of one of the greatest climbers in history. Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • The story of Juliane Koepcke who survived a plane crash and the Amazon jungle | Armenian Explorer

    In 1971, 17-year-old Juliane Koepcke boarded a plane destined for Christmas with her mother. Their journey took a tragic turn when lightning struck the aircraft, causing it to disintegrate mid-flight. Juliane, still strapped to her seat, plummeted 2 miles into the dense Amazon rainforest. Miraculously, she survived the fall, sustaining injuries like a broken collarbone and deep gash on her arm. This is her story. < Back The story of Juliane Koepcke who survived a plane crash and the Amazon jungle In 1971, 17-year-old Juliane Koepcke boarded a plane destined for Christmas with her mother. Their journey took a tragic turn when lightning struck the aircraft, causing it to disintegrate mid-flight. Juliane, still strapped to her seat, plummeted 2 miles into the dense Amazon rainforest. Miraculously, she survived the fall, sustaining injuries like a broken collarbone and deep gash on her arm. This is her story. Juliane Koepcke was flying over the Peruvian rainforest with her mother on Christmas Eve 1971 when their plane was hit by lightning and disintegrated in mid-air. She was the only survivor of the 92 passengers and crew on board LANSA Flight 508. She fell nearly 10,000 feet, still strapped to her seat, and landed in the dense jungle. She had a broken collarbone, a gash on her leg, and a ruptured knee ligament, but she was alive. Photo of Juliane Koepcke at the crash site She had spent most of her childhood in the rainforest, where her parents were zoologists who ran a research station. She knew how to survive in the wild and what dangers to avoid. She decided to follow a stream, hoping it would lead her to a river and then to a village. She had no food, no shoes, and no tools, but she had a determination to live. For 11 days, she walked through the jungle, enduring hunger, thirst, pain, and loneliness. She faced threats from piranhas, crocodiles, snakes, and insects. She suffered from sunburn, infection, and maggots in her wounds. She hallucinated about her mother, who had died in the crash, and wondered if anyone was looking for her. Cover of Juliane Koepcke's book: "When I Fell from the Sky: The True Story of One Woman's Miraculous Survival" On the tenth day, she found a small boat moored near a shelter. She waited there, hoping someone would come. The next day, she heard the sound of an engine and saw three men approaching. They were lumberjacks who worked in the area. They were shocked to see her, but they quickly took care of her. They gave her food and water, cleaned her wounds, and took her to a nearby village. From there, she was flown to a hospital in the city of Pucallpa, where she was reunited with her father. After recovering from her injuries, Koepcke assisted search parties in locating the crash site and recovering the bodies of the victims. Her mother's body was discovered on 12 January 1972." Werner Herzog and Juliane Koepcke during filming the documentary 'Wings of Hope' in 1998 Juliane’s story of survival amazed the world. She later wrote a book about her ordeal, called When I Fell From the Sky. She also became a zoologist like her parents and returned to the rainforest to study wildlife. She said she never lost her love for the jungle, even after everything she had been through. She said: “The jungle is my home.” Koepcke's story is also depicted by herself in German filmmaker Werner Herzog's documentary, "Wings of Hope" (1998). Herzog had a personal connection as he was initially scheduled to be on the same flight while scouting locations for his film "Aguirre, the Wrath of God" (1972). However, a last-minute change of plans spared him from the crash. Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • The Big Desert of Tatev | Armenian Explorer

    If you have taken the Tatev ropeway, you have undoubtedly seen a monastic complex nestled in the gorge, hidden deep in the woods. That's the mysterious Big Desert of Tatev, and a visit promises unforgettable memories! < Back The Big Desert of Tatev If you have taken the Tatev ropeway, you have undoubtedly seen a monastic complex nestled in the gorge, hidden deep in the woods. That's the mysterious Big Desert of Tatev, and a visit promises unforgettable memories! The Big Desert of Tatev is a 17th-century Armenian monastery located on the right bank of the river Vorotan, where it meets its tributary Tatev. It was built in the 1660s after an earthquake destroyed the nearby Harants (Fathers') Hermitage of Halidzor in 1658. The Great Hermitage of Tatev has the same layout as the older hermitage but is larger. It's a valuable example of medieval Armenian architecture with a unique design This is how you see the monastic complex when hiking down the gorge! The main part is surrounded by walls with towers, and there's an additional structure with a table-shaped plan on the southern side. It was of a military significance in the 18th century, during the liberation struggle organized by Davit Bek. In 1663, Saint Astvatsatsin, a 3-naved basilica church, was constructed in the south-western part of the desert using smoothly hewn basalt stone. It's an architectural marvel and when you step inside you can feel a rush of positive energy inside you! In 1743, Meliq Yeghan added a vaulted church-porch hall and a small chapel-mausoleum adjacent to the western part of the church. The dining hall in the southern part is a vaulted long structure with a kitchen, small windows, and stone tables. There are 64 vaulted cells for cenobites along the western and northern walls, some with two or three stories, doors, and windows. The desert once had gardens, threshing floors, a wine press, cellars, and a water mill (now broken). The climate here was suitable for viticulture. The Big Desert of Tatev served as a significant educational, religious, and cultural center. Around 700 monks dedicated themselves to spiritual service here, and the Catհolicos of All Armenians, Movses Khorenaci (Syuneci), received education in this spiritual and cultural hub. The Big Desert of Tatev played a vital role in the formation of manuscript centers, where many manuscripts were written in various monasteries and deserts. How to get to the Big Desert of Tatev? First of all, note that there is no road for cars to reach the location. You will need to take a short hike. You can hike to the Big Desert of Tatev by either starting from Tatev Monastery, descending all the way down towards the gorge and concluding your trip on Satan Bridge. Alternatively, you can park your car on Satan Bridge and commence your hike from that point. Inside the monastic complex, you may encounter a hermit who has been living there for several years and prefers not to be photographed, although he is very friendly! Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • Black Fortress in Gyumri | Armenian Explorer

    Explore Gyumri city's history by visiting the Black Fortress, a stunning example of 19th-century military architecture built from black tuff stone. This imposing structure played a vital role in Russian military strategy during conflicts with Turkey. Located on a hilltop, not far from Mother Armenia monument, the fortress offers visitors a chance to travel back in time, discover the city’s military past, and enjoy panoramic views. Include the Black Fortress in your travel plans when you explore Armenia’s rich heritage on tours in Armenia. < Back Black Fortress in Gyumri Explore Gyumri city's history by visiting the Black Fortress, a stunning example of 19th-century military architecture built from black tuff stone. This imposing structure played a vital role in Russian military strategy during conflicts with Turkey. Located on a hilltop, not far from Mother Armenia monument, the fortress offers visitors a chance to travel back in time, discover the city’s military past, and enjoy panoramic views. Include the Black Fortress in your travel plans when you explore Armenia’s rich heritage on tours in Armenia. In 1813, following the Treaty of Gulistan, which ended the Russo-Persian War (1804-1813), Gyumri, a strategic location on the border with Turkey, became part of the Russian Empire. With the looming threat of a new conflict with Turkey, Russian authorities prioritized fortifying Alexandropol (Gyumri’s name from 1837 to 1924). Ivan Dibich, Commander-in-Chief of the Russian army in the Caucasus, emphasized the need for a stronghold, declaring, "In the event of a possible war with the Turks, it is necessary to build a fortress and strengthen it as the most important military outpost." Mother Armenia and Black Fortress in Gyumri Construction of the Black Fortress began in 1834 atop a hill, taking more than a decade to complete. The fortress, made from black tuff stone, was designed as a circular fortification, earning its distinctive name. After Russia's defeat in the Crimean War, the fortress was upgraded to a first-class status. Although it was never besieged, it played a crucial role in the Russian-Turkish conflicts that persisted until 1878. Following the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-1878, when the Russians captured Kars, the Black Fortress's defensive role diminished, transitioning into an artillery depot. The fortress features several isolated defense structures strategically placed to halt initial enemy advances. Notably, the fort boasts a sophisticated drainage system to protect its walls from rain, and its defense setup includes small concrete fortifications designed as machine gun emplacements. The citadel, positioned at the center, is elevated and surrounded by narrow, high openings ideal for rifle fire. Black fortress in Gyumri In 2005, the fortress was acquired by businessman Hayk Hayrapetyan from the Armenian Ministry of Defense. After Hayrapetyan’s death in 2012, the Black Fortress was sold to the Balasanyan family. Today, under the ownership of Misak Balasanyan, the fortress has been transformed into a significant landmark of Gyumri, offering visitors a glimpse into the city's rich military history and architectural heritage. Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • Adventure Tours in Armenia | Armenian Explorer

    Armenia, with its diverse landscapes, towering mountains, and rich history, is a paradise for adventure seekers. The country offers an array of thrilling activities, from off-roading through rugged terrains to paragliding over scenic valleys. Whether you're looking to conquer mountain peaks, explore hidden caves, or glide through the skies, Armenia has something for every adrenaline enthusiast. This article will guide you through the top adventure tours in Armenia, highlighting some of the most exhilarating experiences the country has to offer. < Back Adventure Tours in Armenia Armenia, with its diverse landscapes, towering mountains, and rich history, is a paradise for adventure seekers. The country offers an array of thrilling activities, from off-roading through rugged terrains to paragliding over scenic valleys. Whether you're looking to conquer mountain peaks, explore hidden caves, or glide through the skies, Armenia has something for every adrenaline enthusiast. This article will guide you through the top adventure tours in Armenia, highlighting some of the most exhilarating experiences the country has to offer. 1. Off-Roading Adventures Off-roading in Armenia is an experience like no other. The country’s rugged terrain and remote landscapes make it perfect for exploring by 4x4 vehicles. Popular destinations for off-roading are Mount Dimats, Lake Akna, Lake Rapi or Trchkan Waterfall. Jeep Cherokee on the slopes of mount Paytasar Mount Dimats: Located in the Tavush region, Mount Dimats offers a challenging off-road route that takes you through dense forests and steep mountain paths. The journey is as exciting as the destination, with stunning views of the surrounding valleys and peaks. Mount Dimats The off-road trail to Mount Dimats is ideal for those looking to combine the thrill of off-roading with the beauty of Armenia’s natural landscapes. Lake Akna: Situated in Geghama mountains, Lake Akna is another popular off-roading destination. The route to the lake is rugged and requires a skilled driver, but the reward is worth it. Camping on the shore of lake Akna Upon arrival, you’ll find a serene alpine lake surrounded by snow-capped mountains with the highest being mount Azhdahak. This off-road adventure is perfect for those who enjoy the tranquility of nature combined with the excitement of off-road driving. Lake Akna is perfect for camping. Flying over Azat reservoir 2. Paragliding Over Armenia Armenia’s mountainous terrain and favorable weather conditions make it an ideal location for paragliding. The experience of soaring above the country’s breathtaking landscapes is truly unforgettable. Top Paragliding Spots: One of the best places for paragliding in Armenia is the area around Lake Sevan. Here, you can glide over the crystal-clear waters of the lake, with the towering mountains in the background. Another popular spot is Azat rezervoir, where you can paraglide over the reservoir and mount Yeranos with a scenic view towards mount Ararat. What to Expect: Paragliding tours in Armenia are typically guided by experienced instructors who ensure your safety while you enjoy the stunning views. Whether you’re a seasoned paraglider or a first-timer, the experience is accessible to everyone who doesn’t have health issues. 3. Hiking and Trekking Hiking in Armenia offers a unique opportunity to explore the country’s diverse landscapes on foot. From challenging mountain ascents to leisurely nature walks, there’s a trail for every type of hiker. The view from the southern summit of mount Aragats Popular Hiking Trails: Some of the most popular hiking destinations include the trails around Mount Aragats, Armenia’s highest peak. The hike to each of the 4 summits of the mountain offer panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. For a more moderate hike, the Dilijan National Park offers trails that wind through lush forests, past ancient monasteries, and along crystal-clear lakes. Supboarding in Azat reservoir 4. Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP) SUP-boarding is a relatively new but rapidly growing adventure activity in Armenia. The country’s many lakes provide the perfect setting for this water sport. Lake Sevan: Lake Sevan, the largest lake in Armenia, is the most popular destination for SUP-boarding. The calm waters of the lake make it an ideal spot for beginners, while the stunning mountain views add to the experience. Azat Reservoir: Azat Reservoir is another popular destination. Located close to the capital Yerevan, you won’t spend much time on the road and can reach the shoreline in about an hour. 5. Rafting Adventures Rafting in Armenia is an adrenaline-pumping experience, with the country’s fast-flowing rivers providing the perfect setting for this adventure sport. Debed River: The Debed River in the Lori region is one of the best places for rafting in Armenia. The river’s rapids range from mild to challenging, making it suitable for both beginners and experienced rafters. The tour is guided by professional instructors who ensure your safety while navigating the river’s rapids. These tours typically include all necessary equipment, as well as transportation to and from the river. 6. Urban Exploration (Urbexing) For those interested in the hidden and abandoned, urbexing (urban exploration) in Armenia offers a unique adventure. The country is dotted with abandoned Soviet-era buildings, factories, bunkers, copper tunnels and other structures that make for fascinating exploration. The Iron Fountain in Gyumri Abandoned Sites: Some popular urbexing sites include ROT54 telescope, abandoned sanatoriums as well as the old Soviet observatories and military installations scattered across the country. Exploring these sites offers a glimpse into Armenia’s past, as well as the thrill of discovering forgotten places. ROT54 telescope Safety Considerations : While urbexing can be exciting, it’s important to take safety precautions. Many of these sites are in a state of disrepair, so it’s advisable to explore them with a guide who is familiar with the area. 7. Caving Armenia’s mountainous landscape is home to numerous caves, many of which are still relatively unexplored. Caving in Armenia offers the chance to explore these hidden underground worlds. Areni-1 Cave: One of the most famous caves in Armenia is the Areni-1 Cave, located in the Vayots Dzor region. This cave is known for its archaeological significance, as it’s one of the oldest known winemaking sites in the world. The cave itself is a fascinating place to explore, with its winding passages and ancient artifacts. Exploring Voghjaberd caves Speleology Tours: For more adventurous cavers, there are guided speleology tours that take you to less-known caves in Armenia. These tours are typically led by experienced guides and provide all the necessary equipment. 8. Zip-Lining Zip-lining is a thrilling way to experience Armenia’s stunning landscapes from above. The country offers several zip-lining opportunities, with lines that take you over forests, rivers, and valleys. Yell Extreme Park: Located in the Tavush region, Yell Extreme Park is one of the most popular zip-lining destinations in Armenia. The park offers several lines of varying lengths and heights, allowing you to soar through the air while taking in the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and forests. Safety and Fun: Zip-lining tours in Armenia are designed to be both safe and exciting, with professional instructors ensuring that you have a memorable experience. 9. Winter Skiing Winter in Armenia transforms the country into a snowy wonderland, making it a perfect destination for skiing and snowboarding. Two of the most popular ski resorts in Armenia are Tsaghkadzor and MyLer in Aparan. Tsaghkadzor Ski Resort is the most well-known ski resort in Armenia. The resort offers a variety of slopes for all skill levels, from beginner to expert. In addition to skiing and snowboarding, Tsaghkadzor also offers other winter activities such as snowshoeing and snowmobiling. MyLer in Aparan: MyLer is a newer ski resort located in the Aparan region. It’s smaller and less crowded than Tsaghkadzor, making it a great choice for those looking for a more tranquil skiing experience. MyLer offers well-groomed slopes, as well as stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Conclusion Armenia is an adventure lover’s dream, offering a wide range of activities that cater to all levels of thrill-seekers. Whether you’re off-roading to remote mountain lakes, paragliding over stunning landscapes, or skiing down snow-covered slopes, Armenia’s diverse and breathtaking scenery provides the perfect backdrop for your next adventure. With so many exciting options to choose from, adventure tours in Armenia are sure to leave you with unforgettable memories and a longing to return for more. Gallery You May Also Like How to Visit ROT54 (Aragats Scientific Center) – Full Guide Shvanidzor’s 17th-Century Aqueduct: Armenia’s Ancient Engineering Marvel Grigor Khanjyan’s Monumental Fresco at the Yerevan Cascade From Stendhal Syndrome to Suren Syndrome Tirinkatar Sacred Valley: Armenia’s High-Altitude Valley of Dragon Stones How to Choose a Local Guide in Armenia Komitas Pantheon in Yerevan Gallery of Mineral Waters in Jermuk

  • Marco Polo about Armenia | Armenian Explorer

    This brief article is an excerpt from Thomas Wright's book, "The Travels of Marco Polo The Venetian." In the chapters presented below, Marco Polo shares insights about Armenia. The author includes useful footnotes that clarify many archaic names of Armenian locations. < Back Marco Polo about Armenia This brief article is an excerpt from Thomas Wright's book, "The Travels of Marco Polo The Venetian." In the chapters presented below, Marco Polo shares insights about Armenia. The author includes useful footnotes that clarify many archaic names of Armenian locations. Marco Polo, a renowned Venetian merchant and explorer of the 13th century, embarked on a journey from Europe to Asia. Spending 17 years in China, he served as an envoy and diplomat for Kublai Khan, the Mongol emperor. Polo documented his extensive travels in a book titled "The Travels of Marco Polo," offering detailed accounts of his experiences, observations, and insights into the culture, geography, politics, and economy of China and other lands. His influential work inspired subsequent travelers and explorers, including Christopher Columbus. Intrigued by Polo's perspective on Armenia, this blog post features an extract from his book (The Travels Of Marco Polo The Venetian by Thomas Wright). Mosaic of Marco Polo displayed in the Palazzo Doria-Tursi, Genoa, Italy Chapter II. Of Armenia Minor—Of the Port of Laiassus—And of the Boundaries of the Province. IN commencing the description of the countries which Marco Polo visited in Asia, and of things worthy of notice which he observed therein, it is proper to mention that we are to distinguish two Armenias, the Lesser and the Greater. 1 The king of the Lesser Armenia dwells in a city called Sebastoz, 2 and rules his dominions with strict regard to justice. The towns, fortified places, and castles are numerous. There is abundance of all necessaries of life, as well as of those things which contribute to its comfort. Game, both of beasts and birds, is in plenty. It must be said, however, that the air of the country is not remarkably healthy. In former times its gentry were esteemed expert and brave soldiers; but at the present day they are great drinkers, pusillanimous, and worthless. On the sea−coast there is a city named Laiassus, 3 a place of considerable traffic. Its port is frequented by merchants from Venice, Genoa, and many other places, who trade in spiceries and drugs of different sorts, manufactures of silk and of wool, and other rich commodities. Those persons who design to travel into the interior of the Levant, 4 usually proceed in the first instance to this port of Laiassus. The boundaries of the Lesser Armenia are, on the south, the Land of Promise, now occupied by the Saracens; 5 on the north, Karamania, inhabited by Turkomans; towards the north−east lie the cities of Kaisariah, Sevasta, 6 and many others subject to the Tartars; and on the western side it is bounded by the sea, which extends to the shores of Christendom. 1 This distinction of the Armenias into the Greater and the Lesser, is conformable to what we find in Ptolemy and the geographers of the middle ages; although other divisions have taken place since that part of Asia has been subject to the Ottoman empire. The Les en Armenia is defined by Büsching as comprehending that part of Cappadocia and Cilicia which lies along the western side of the Greater Armenia, and also on the western side of the Euphrates. That in the days of Haiton it extended south of Taurus, and included Cilicia (campestris), which was not the case in more ancient times, we have the unexceptionable authority of that historian. 2 As it appears from the passage quoted in the preceding note, as well as from other authorities, that Sîs was the capital of the Lesser Armenia during the reigns of the Leons and Haitons, we are led to suppose the Sebastoz here mentioned to have been the ancient name of that city, or of one that stood on the same site. It is obvious, indeed, from the geography of Ptolemy, that there were many places in Asia Minor that bore the names of Sebastia, Sebaste, and Sebastopolis (besides one in Syria), and in his enumeration of the towns of Cilicia, we find a Sebaste, to which, in the Latin translation, published at Venice in 1562, the epithet of “augusta” is annexed. Upon the foundations of this, Leon I. (from whom the country is called by the Arabians, Belad Leon, as well as Belad Sîs), may have built the modern city, and the Greek name may have been still prevalent. We are told, however, that the city which preceded Sis, as the capital of Armenia Minor, was named Messis, Massis, or Massissa, the ancient Mopsuestia, and it must be confessed that if authority was not in opposition to conjecture, the sound of these names might lead us to suppose that the modern name was only an abbreviation of Mes−sis, and Sebastoz a substitution for Mopsueste. In a subsequent part of the chapter the city of Sevasta or Sevaste, the modern Siwas or Sivas, is spoken of under circumstances that appear to distinguish it entirely from the Armenian capital; having been recently conquered by the Moghuls from the Seljuk princes. 3 Lajazzo, or Aïas, is situated in a low, morassy country, formed by the alluvion of the two rivers Sihon and Jihon (of Cilicia), and (as observed to me by Major Rennell) at the present mouth of the latter. Its trade has been transferred to Alexandretta or Scanderoon, on the opposite or Syrian side of the gulf. 4 Levant is a translation of the word Anatolia or Anadoli, from the Greek “ortus, oriens,” signifying the country that lies eastward from Greece. As the name of a region therefore it should be equivalent to Natolia, in its more extensive acceptation; and it is evident that our author employs it to denote Asia Minor. Smyrna is at present esteemed the principal port in the Levant, and the term seems to be now confined to the sea−coast and to mercantile usage. 5 For the Land of Promise, or Palestine, which extends no further to the north than Tyre, is here to be understood Syria, or that part of it called Cælo−Syria, which borders on Cilicia or the southern part of Armenia Minor. As the more general denomination of Syria includes Palestine, and the latter name was, in the time of the Crusades, more familiar to Europeans than the former, it is not surprising that they should sometimes be confounded. The Saracens here spoken of were the subjects of the Mameluk sultans or soldans of Egypt, who recovered from the Christian powers in Syria, what the princes of the family of Saladin, or of the Ayubite dynasty, had lost. In other parts of the work the term is employed indiscriminately with that of Mahometan. 6 The Turkomans of Karamania were a race of Tartars settled in Asia Minor, under the government of the Seljuk princes, of whom an account will be found in the following note. Kaisariah or Cæsarea, and Sevasta or Sebaste, the Sebastopolis Cappadociæ of Ptolemy and Siwas or Sivas of the present day, were cities belonging to the same dynasty, that had been conquered by the Moghuls in the year 1242. Chapter III. Of the Province called Turkomania, where are the Cities of Kogni, Kaisariah, and Sevasta, and of its Commerce. THE inhabitants of Turkomania 1 may be distinguished into three classes. The Turkomans, who reverence Mahomet and follow his law, are a rude people, and dull of intellect. They dwell amongst the mountains and in places difficult of access, where their object is to find good pasture for their cattle, as they live entirely upon animal food. There is here an excellent breed of horses which has the appellation of Turki, and fine mules which are sold at high prices. 2 The other classes are Greeks and Armenians, who reside in the cities and fortified places, and gain their living by commerce and manufacture. The best and handsomest carpets in the world are wrought here, and also silks of crimson and other rich colours. 3 Amongst its cities are those of Kogni, Kaisariah, and Sevasta, in which last Saint Blaise obtained the glorious crown of martyrdom. 4 They are all subject to the great khan, emperor of the Oriental Tartars, who appoints governors to them. 5 We shall now speak of the Greater Armenia. 1 By Turkomania we are to understand, generally, the possessions of the great Seljuk dynasty in Asia Minor, extending from Cilicia and Pamphylia, in the south, to the shores of the Euxine sea, and from Pisidia and Mysia, in the west, to the borders of Armenia Minor; including the greater part of Phrygia and Cappadocia, together with Pontus, and particularly the modern provinces of Karamania and Rumiyah, or the country of Rûm. Of the former of these, the capital. was Iconium, corrupted by the oriental writers to Kuniyah, and by those of the Crusades to Kogni; of the latter, Sebaste or Sebastopolis, corrupted to Siwas or Sivas. The chief from whom the dynasty of Seljuks derived its appellation, was by birth a Turkoman, of Turkistan, on the north−eastern side of the river Sihon or Jaxartes, but in the service of a prince of Khozar, on the Wolga, from which he fled and pursued his fortune in Transoxiana; as did some of his family in Khorasan. Having acquired great celebrity, they were at length enabled, by the means of numerous tribes of Turkomans who joined their standard, to establish a sovereignty, or, in point of extent, an empire, the principal seat of which was in Persia. Another branch, about the year 1080, wrested the fine provinces of Asia Minor from the Greek emperors, and formed the kingdom of which we are now speaking. Through its territory the Christian princes repeatedly forced their way in their progress to the Holy Land, and it is computed by historians that not fewer than six hundred thousand men perished in this preliminary warfare. At length the power of the Seljuks yielded to the overwhelming influence of the house of Jengiz−khan, and in our author's time they were reduced to insignificance; but from their ruins sprang the empire of the Ottomans, the founder of which had been in the service of one of the last sultans of Iconium. 2 The pastoral habits of the Turkoman Tartars are preserved to this day, even in Asia Minor, and the distinction of their tribes subsists also. The Turki breed of horses is esteemed throughout the East, for spirit and hardiness. 3 “Et ibi fiunt soriani et tapeti pulchriores de mundo et pulchrioris coloris" are the words of the Latin text. 4 “Blaise, bishop of Sebasta, in Cappadocia, in the second and third centuries,” says the Biographical Dictionary, “suffered death under Diocletian, by decapitation, after being whipped and having his flesh torn with iron combsIt is difficult to say how the invention (of wool combing) came to be attributed to him; but it had probably no better origin than the circumstance of his being tortured with the instruments used in the combing of wool.” 5 It is the family of Hulagu, and the tribes who followed his standard from the north, whom our author always designates by the name of Oriental Tartars, to distinguish them from the descendants of Batu, who settled near the Wolga, on the north−western side of the Caspian, and extended their conquests towards Europe; whilst the former entered Persia from the Eastern quarter, by the way of Transexiana and Khorasan. Chapter IV. Of Armenia Major, in which are the Cities of Arzingan, Argiron, and Darziz—Of the Castle of Paipurth—Of the Mountain where the Ark of Noah rested—Of the Boundaries of the Province—And of a remarkable Fountain of Oil. ARMENIA Major is an extensive province, at the entrance of which is a city named Arzingan, 1 where there is a manufacture of very fine cotton cloth called bombazines, 2 as well as of many other curious fabrics, which it would be tedious to enumerate. It possesses the handsomest and most excellent baths of warm water, issuing from the earth, that are anywhere to be found. 3 Its inhabitants are for the most part native Armenians, but under the dominion of the Tartars. In this province there are many cities, but Arzingan is the principal, and the seat of an archbishop; and the next in consequence are Argiron 4 and Darziz. 5 It is very extensive, and, in the summer season, the station of a part of the army of the Eastern Tartars, on account of the good pasture it affords for their cattle; but on the approach of winter they are obliged to change their quarters, the fall of snow being so very deep that the horses could not find subsistence, and for the sake of warmth and fodder they proceed to the southward. Within a castle named Paipurth, 6 which you meet with in going from Trebisond to Tauris, there is a rich mine of silver. 7 In the central part of Armenia stands an exceedingly large and high mountain, upon which, it is said, the ark of Noah rested, and for this reason it is termed the mountain of the ark. 8 The circuit of its base cannot be compassed in less than two days. The ascent is impracticable on account of the snow towards the summit, which never melts, but goes on increasing by each successive fall. In the lower region, however, near the plain, the melting of the snow fertilizes the ground, and occasions such an abundant vegetation, that all the cattle which collect there in summer from the neighbouring country, meet with a never−failing supply. 9 Bordering upon Armenia, to the south−west, are the districts of Mosul and Maredin, which shall be described hereafter, and many others too numerous to particularize. To the north lies Zorzania, near the confines of which there is a fountain of oil which discharges so great a quantity as to furnish loading for many camels. 10 The use made of it is not for the purpose of food, but as an unguent for the cure of cutaneous distempers in men and cattle, as well as other complaints; and it is also good for burning. In the neighbouring country no other is used in their lamps, and people come from distant parts to procure it. 1 Arzengân, or, as written by the Arabians, who have not the Persian g, Arzenjân, is a city near the frontier of Rumiyah, but just within the limits of Armenia Major. “Cette ville,” says D'Herbelot, “appartient plutôt à l'Arménie, et fut prise par les Mogols ou Tartares l an 640 de l'Hégire, de J. C. 1242, après la défaite de Kaikhosrou, fils d'Aladin le Selgiucide, aussi bien que les villes de Sébaste et de Césarée.” By an oriental geographer it is said to be, “Oppidum celeberrimum, elegans, amænum, copiosum bonis rebus, incolisque: pertinens ad Armeniam: inter Rumæas provincias et Chalatam situm, haud procul Arzerroumo: esseque incolas ejus maixmam partem Armenios” Alberti Schultens Index Geographicus in Vitam Saladini. Josaphat Barbaro, a Venetian, who travelled into Persia, in the fifteenth century, speaks of Arsengan as a place that had formerly been of consequence, but was then mostly in ruins. 2 The name of a species of cloth which I have here translated “bombazine,” is in the Italian of Ramusio, “bochassini di bambagio,” and in the Latin versions “buchiranus, buchyramis, and bucaramus.” Its substance or texture is not clearly explained in our dictionaries. That of Cotgrave, printed in 1611, defines “boccasin,” to be “a kind of fine buckeram, that hath a resemblance of taffata, and is much used for lining; also the stuffe callimanco.” But this, it is evident, cannot apply to a manufacture of bombagio or cotton; and the Vocabolario della Crusca, as well as the Glossary of Du Cange, speak of “bucherame bianchissima,” and “bucherame bambagino,” and both of them quote our author for the use of the word. All the examples convey the idea of fine, white, and soft cotton cloth; the reverse of what is now called buckram. The early Latin text speaks of boccorame and bambace as two distinct things. 3 Natural warm baths are found in many parts of Asia Minor, and particularly near Ancyra, the modern Angora or Anguri, which are still much frequented. Their situation is denoted by the word Thermæ, in Rennell's map explanatory of the Retreat of the Ten thousand. They are also spoken of at Teflis in Georgia; The Travels of Marco Polo, the Venetian 35 but of their existence at Arzengan I have not been able to find notice in the works of the Eastern geographers. 4 Argiron, or, in the Latin versions, Argyron, is a corruption of Arzerrûm, Erzerûm, or Arzen er−rûm, a distinctive name given to a city called Arzen, as being the last strong place, in that direction, belonging to the Greek empire. “Arzerrûm,” says Abulfeda, “est extremus finis regionum Rumæorum ab oriente. In ejus orientali et septentrionali latere est fons Euphratis.” 5 Darziz, which in the Basle edition is Darzirim, in the older Latin, Arziu, and in the Italian epitomes, Arciri and Arziri, is the town now called Arjîs, situated on the border of the Lake Van, anciently named Arsissa palus. “Argish,” says Macdonald Kinneir, “is a town containing six thousand inhabitants, situated on the north−west side of the lake, three days' journey from Van. There are four islands in the lake, on one of which is an Armenian monastery, and three hundred priests.” Memoir of the Persian Empire, pp. 328, 329. These places, it may be observed, lay in our author's returning route, from Tauris to Trebisond. 6 Paipurth, the Baiburt of D' Anville's and Rennell's maps, is situated among the mountains, in a northerly direction from Arzerrûm. As the word purt signifies a castle in the Armenian language, and as the Arabian geographers, from not having the letter p in their alphabet, are obliged to substitute the b, it is probable that the former is the more genuine orthography. This castle is particularly noted by Josaphat Barbaro, who says, “Partendo d' essa (Trabisonda) per andar à Thaurisil primo luogo notabile che si trova, è uno castello in piano in una valle d' ognitorno circondata da monti, nominato Baiburth, castel forte e muratoCinque giornate piu in la, si trova ArsenganPoi si ritrova un castello nominato Carpurth.”—Viaggio in Persia, p. 48, ed. 1545, 12mo. 7 Although this particular mine may have been exhausted, silver mines are known to exist in this part of Armenia. 8 The mountain of Armenia (the Ararat of Scripture) upon which the ark is believed by the Christians of that country to have rested, stands not far from the city of Erivan or Irwân. The Mahometans, however, assign to it a different situation. “L'opinion commune des Orientaux,” says D'Herbelot, “est que l'arche de Noë s'arrêta sur la montagne de Gioudi, qui est une des croupes du mont Taurus ou Gordiæus en Arménie, et cette tradition est autorisé en ce pays−là par plusieurs histoires qui approchent fort de la fable.” “Joudi,” says Ibn Haukal, “is a mountain near Nisibin. It is said that the ark of Noah (to whom be peace,) rested on the summit of this mountain.” Ouseley's translation, p. 60. Major Rennell observes, that Jeudi is the part of the Carduchian mountains opposite to the Jezirat ibn Omar, and that the dervishes keep a light burning there, in honour of Noah and his ark. 9 This fertility of the country in the vicinity of the mountains, is noticed by Moses Chorenensis, who says, “Habet autem Araratia montes camposque, atque omnem fæcunditatem.”—Geographia, p. 361. 10 Springs of petroleum or earth (properly, rock) oil, are found in many parts of the world. The spring or fountain here spoken of is that of Baku in Shirvan, on the border of the Caspian. “Near to this place,” says John Cartwright, in what are termed the Preacher's Travels, “is a very strange and wonderful fountain under ground, out of which there springeth and issueth a marvellous quantity of black oyl, which serveth all the parts of Persia to burn in their houses; and they usually carry it all over the country upon kine and asses, whereof you shall oftentimes meet three or four hundred in company.”—Oxford Coll. of Voyages, vol. i. (vii.) p. 731. Strahlenberg speaks of this as a spring of white naphtha, which he distinguishes from the black sort of bitumen; but the most satisfactory account of both white and black naphtha in this district is given by Kæmpfer, in his Amænitates Exoticæ, p. 274−281. 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